I can't wait until the "Tech Corner" is up and running. This thread, along with may of Wrabbits tech threads have my brain frying as I try to teach myself new tricks. (Not to mention other websites that try to teach idiots like me). I used to think I was pretty good, but you don't use it, you lose it.
I probably should get a new confuser so I can destroy this one in my attempts at learning. LOL
Beware the man who has one gun, he probably knows how to use it.
Now I cannot pick up wifi due to either the Intel (R) wifi Link 5100 AGN and/or the Marvel Yukon 88E8071 PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet controller
Plus, since my Verizon has not been able to detect the modem since the HD crash, I have no access to internet now on my laptop (had modem in our router)
I can't transfer links to the laptop via my phone, can I?
Think I'm screwed on this one
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ETA: This is another time where stubbornness pays off.....
Finally got wifi going again...tried inserting original app/driver disc and even tho it wasn't the exact same number, I hit Intel wifi and viola, I'm in.....for now
Last Edit: Apr 13, 2015 22:03:19 GMT -6 by Deleted
My Vista no longer will do any updates, the Service Pack 2 being one of them
Nor will it download Windows Installer
From what I have found out concerning this issue, it was suggested to reinstall Vista (sigh)
If I'm gonna have to do that, I might as well upgrade to Win 7 (yes, I ran a compatibility test and other than 1 driver needing updated, it said all was good...of course all my software for the printer will need updating once I switch over)
Now then, question is this.....
-Do I have to remove Vista BEFORE I attempt to install Win 7 or can I leave it be for now?
Depending on how much data the download uses (Win 7) , I may have to wait a couple more weeks before I do any kind of change over at the moment (our broadband monthly plan is only for 10 GB - Verizon)
A clean install is the only way to go, they have always been a little buggy after upgrade. I thought they quit supporting Vista and that would explain why you can't get updates. I would get the install CD as well. If you need network capability you will need 7 pro as well not 7 home. Also remember 7 has a higher overhead than vista, and could slow an older machine.
Well, if I recall, you have a realtively new install there right? There shouldn't be much to lose at this point...right?
If I'm right on that, then by all means, nuke it! (Only way to be sure.. ). Seriously, when Windows 7 asks to install and wants to know if it should upgrade over or install as a replacement to the Windows Vista? Tell it to format, install fresh and have at it for a clean go of it.
It WILL NEED to see Windows Vista installed or a previous version of Windows disk (any official Windows disk...it isn't picky), unless you bought the full cost, full install version. In that case, it works the same, or you CAN format the drive beforehand.
Easier to just boot to the Win 7 disk in the drive though, and tell it to just install as a fresh copy after formatting the existing drive. (assuming, one last time, there is nothing on that drive of value to ya)
** To be 100% clear on this point, since Microshaft isn't. Windows FULL Version and Windows UPGRADE versions are IDENTICAL for any consumer concerns. The *ONLY* difference, if that is the only thing different on the box, is that a Windows install from an Upgrade Disk needs to see a previous legally owned Windows (or so they say, on the legal part...I've just always thrown in an old disk when asked, it looked, and that was that) before it installs.
Either way, the end result is the same Windows installed in the machine when you boot it after install is complete.
Last Edit: Apr 21, 2015 19:23:09 GMT -6 by Deleted
As Marlin said, it's always best to zap and format beforehand, but in the case of Win7, that's going to happen one way or the other, since Win7 has no upgrade path, and always does a fresh install. It used to be that you could "upgrade" an old version with a new one without actually removing it, but that stopped with Windows XP.Once you've downloaded the ISO (I'm assuming it's being delivered as an ISO), make sure you burn it to a DVD to have a physical copy in case you ever need it again.
I think Win7 is about a 3.5 GB download, which will eat a hole in your DL budget, so if you have a friend with a more generous internet plan, you might check into downloading it there and either burning it to DVD or copying it to a USB thumb drive to take home and burn.
If it slows your machine after an install, you can turn Aero off and regain some of that performance it was eating.
I think Win7 is about a 3.5 GB download, which will eat a hole in your DL budget, so if you have a friend with a more generous internet plan, you might check into downloading it there and either burning it to DVD or copying it to a USB thumb drive to take home and burn.
That's what I was wondering about, how much data it used up
May have to spend a day at McD's or the likes to get it downloaded
What is the best DVD type to burn that to? I know there are many variations and for nearly 4 GB worth, not sure what would work for this
Last Edit: Apr 21, 2015 20:06:15 GMT -6 by Deleted
Any writable DVD should work fine, since you're just making a throw away disk after you've installed. You're downloading to a hard drive, I presume. Then burn the ISO to the DVD and run it on boot-up.
If you ever get to ..ahem..backing up a DVD library or something of that nature? Let me know. I have a very good name in Japanese DVD's that come blank stock with full printable faces. They're among the best for long term quality on storage and backups that are...indistinguishable at a glance.
Last Edit: Apr 21, 2015 20:20:45 GMT -6 by Deleted
Yeah, what he said. You don't need anything fancy like double sided DVDs or anything. Any of them will hold at least 4.3 GB (depending on how you want to measure GBs) - all I've ever seen were labeled as "4.7 GB", but good luck getting 4.7 GB on them. Neither do you need "audio quality". It's just data. Any DVD will do, as long as it will last long enough to install Windows.
I don't know how fast McDonalds connections are, but that might be one way to go. Last time I tried to log on from a fast food joint (Burger King, I think it was) they tried to run a hack script on my computer, so I never tried there again. It was probably just some teenager working at that location who had messed with their software. If I got it started, I'd just set it to download in the background, and browse Hernandos, or stock quotes or something in the visible foreground until it was done. Depending on the source servers and any throttles at McDonalds, it should go fairly fast. I have downloaded files that size in a half an hour before, but you might want to figure on a bit longer, maybe a couple of hours, to be on the safe side.
If you need image burning software to burn an ISO into a useable DVD, I recommend ImgBurn - it's cheap (as in free) and has been very easy for me to use. You just have to be sure you're "burning image to disk", and not burning the ISO itself as a file to the disk.
Last Edit: Apr 21, 2015 20:41:07 GMT -6 by Deleted
